Thursday, July 12, 2012

Lake Coatepeque - Lunch at the lake: the breeze, the views, divine!


  Coatepeque is a splendid and tranquil crater lake surrounded by private vacation homes.  On a Saturday afternoon, we practically had the place to ourselves. Next time I think we’ll just stop and have lunch at one of the restaurants at the top, avoiding the bumpy dirt road our little car had to traverse to get to the few restaurants at the base, (though it was worth the drive for our first visit!).
Coatepeque means “cerro de culebras” or “snake hill” in Nahuatl.  
We didn’t see any snakes in case you’re wondering.

Hotel Torremolinos and its restaurant Calderon de la Barca


We sat as close to the lake as we could.  
The part on stilts moved when we walked and swayed with the wind.


“Mojarra” a la plancha, grilled tilapia, fished from the lake



Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Joya de Ceren and San Andres Mayan Ruins, Superate, and the strength of the human spirit, Las Ruinas de Joya de Cerén y San Andrés, Supérate, y la fuerza del espíritu humano


  El Salvador has various archeological ruins where you can see how people lived during the Mayan and Colonial times.  Recently I went to  Joya de Ceren and San Andres, two ruins located between San Salvador and Santa Ana.  Joya de Ceren was a Mayan village unearthed in 1976.  San Andres was a regional Mayan capital.  Both were destroyed by volcanic eruptions and both were remade and transformed into working villages once again. 
  They each have museums and guides to explain the different time periods and how the places changed.  For me, it was interesting to see how people lived, and how through the centuries, people left, returned, and reconstructed or reinvented the place.  Both places have many trees, flowers, and plants.  San Andres, especially, has lots of green spaces and walking paths.  If you go, I recommend bringing a picnic to sit and enjoy the surroundings.
  Very close to San Andres is a school called Superate, connected to Hilasal, a factory and business that makes towels.  There are six Superate schools in the country, all connected and supported by different Salvadoran businesses.  Superate is designed for underprivileged students in the surrounding community who excel in their studies.  The school teaches English, Computer skills, and Values, and is taught in conjunction with their high school.  My husband and I met with the English teachers and a group of students.  It was incredible to see the students’ high level of English and motivation for learning.  They have plenty of obstacles to overcome and they are doing it.  By participating in this program, they have more possibilities with their future education and employment.  The teachers are clearly proud of their students and greatly enjoy working with them.
  The combination of seeing two ruins and Superate in the same day was very inspiring.  It’s amazing how humans are able to change and adapt.  Natural catastrophes and economic changes are par for the course in our lives, but the human spirit is incredibly strong and can surmount more than is imaginable.
  El Salvador tiene ruinas arqueológicas donde puede visitar y aprender cómo la gente vivía en la epoca Maya y Colonial.  Recientemente fui a Joya de Cerén y San Andrés, dos ruinas ubicadas dentro de San Salvador y Santa Ana.  Joya de Cerén era un pueblo de indígenas mayas descubierto en 1976.  San Andrés era una capital regional del Mundo Maya con un centro ceremonial.  Las dos fueron destrozadas por erupciones de volcanes y las dos fueron rehechas varias veces. 
  Hay museos y guías para ver y oír como ha pasado el tiempo, que había en diferentes épocas, y como los lugares han cambiado.  Para mí, fue muy interesante ver como la gente vivía, y más, como la gente salía, regresaba, y reconstruía sobre el mismo sitio a través de los siglos. 
  Los dos lugares tienen muchos árboles, flores, y plantas.  San Andrés especialmente tiene mucho espacio para caminar y disfrutar el aire libre.  Les recomiendo traer lo necesario para hacer un picnic y quedarse un rato.
  Muy cerca de San Andrés está una escuela que se llama Supérate.  Está al lado de Hilasal, la cual es empresa y fabrica de toallas.  Supérate tiene seis escuelas dentro del país, todas conectadas y apoyadas con empresas salvadoreñas.  Supérate es un proyecto para jóvenes talentosos quienes vienen de lugares y familias sin muchos recursos.  Es una escuela donde los estudiantes tienen clases de computación, valores, e inglés.  La escuela dura tres años y es en conjunción con su bachillerato.  Mi esposo y yo conocimos a los profesores de inglés y algunos estudiantes.  Fue increíble ver el nivel de motivación de los estudiantes.  Ellos tienen muchas dificultades a superar y están haciéndolo.  Con este programa, tienen más posibilidades de empleo y educación.  Los profesores están tan orgullosos de sus estudiantes y es claro que disfrutan su trabajo.
  La combinación de ver las ruinas y una escuela de Supérate en el mismo día fue muy inspiradora.  Reflexioné sobre los seres humanos y como son capaces de sobrevivir catástrofes naturales y cambios económicos.  El espíritu humano es muy fuerte y puede superar más que lo pudiera imaginar.

Images from Joya de Ceren, Imagenes de Joya de Cerén


A torogoz, the national bird, Un torogoz, ave nacional del país
Cashew Tree, Arbol de Marañon 

Images from San Andres, Imagenes de San Andrés


Cacao trees Arbol de cacao





Tuesday, June 26, 2012

MAG Farmer’s Market and feeling at home, El agro-mercado de MAG y sintiendome en casa

  This weekly farmer’s market in Santa Tecla is a delight.  Every Thursday morning from approximately 7:00-1:00 the Ministry of Agriculture and Livestock hosts this friendly market filled with fruits and vegetables, flowers, plants, honey, meat, jams, seafood, pupusas, atoles, and more. The farmers display their goods in large baskets lined with big green leaves.  The presentation is charming.  How wonderful it is to talk to the actual people growing the food you choose.  I wish I had found this market sooner!  The prices are good and the calm energy that pervades the place makes me feel at home.  I find myself wanting to buy everything but am limited by my two hands.  Thursdays are now special days for the rest of my time here thanks to MAG.

  El mercado del Ministerio de Agricultura y Ganadería es algo muy especial.  Cada jueves la mañana está llena de frutas, verduras, miel, flores, plantas, carne, pescado, pasteles, dulces, atoles, pupusas, y mucho más.  Todos los productos son de El Salvador y hechos o cultivados por las manos de las personas vendiéndolos.  El mercado tiene la sensación de seguridad, tranquilidad, y amabilidad.  Ahora que ya lo conozco, los jueves son días importantes para mí.  Este mercado me hace sentir alegre y en casa. 


 I spy beans, passion fruit, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, guisquil, cucumbers, mangoes, limes, and okra.  This farmer is from the outskirts of Sonsonate.  


  Here is everything I bought from last week’s market on my kitchen counter.  The smell of the guava was so divine.  It permeated our apartment all week long.

Friday, June 22, 2012

Genzano di Roma Caffe, Ciambelle, and I HEART pizza


  
  This Roman café is GOOD!  So far I have tried their pizza, a few pastries, and a nice cinnamon iced tea.  The pizza crust is uber-thin and crunchy, and the personal size is just right for lunchtime.  The crazy green semi-hard doughnut is called “Ciambelle de Limon”.  It is lime green on the inside too!  Just now, I had fun with Google Images looking up “Ciambelle”.  It made me hungry.  It also brought back old memories of homemade donuts my friend’s Mom made for us the morning after a birthday party sleepover.  Try googling it.  I bet you’ll get hungry too.  But wait!  I’m writing about PIZZA, which I love.  It is one of my favorite foods, tied with PASTA, which Genzano di Roma Caffe also serves.  I HEART pizza and am glad to have found a pizza place in San Salvador that I can’t wait to go back to.

Pizza with potatoes and rosemary.

Espresso with biscotti.

¿Donde queda?
Calle El Mediterráneo 36-B, Jardines de Guadalupe
Antiguo Cuscatlán cerca de la UCA
Teléfono 2243-2153

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Súper Selectos y algunas de mis cosas favoritas, Super Selectos and a few of my favorite things


  Súper Selectos es un buen supermercado aquí en El Salvador.  La empresa es de dueños salvadoreños y hay más que 75 sucursales en el país.   Es un mercado normal, pero tiene buenos acentos, como frutas y vegetales especiales, comida internacional y gourmet, y muchos empleos para ayudarle.  Intento hacer mis compras en mercados menos comerciales pero Súper Selectos es tan fácil y tiene casi todo lo que quiero.  Aquí están algunas cosas que me gustan mucho.  Todas son hechas en El Salvador y tienen muy buena calidad.
  Super Selectos is a great grocery store here in El Salvador.  Owned and run by Salvadorans, there are over 75 stores in the country.  It’s a normal looking grocery store with special touches, like specialty produce, gourmet and international pantry items, and plenty of employees in the aisles to help you.  I try to shop at less commercial markets but Super Selectos has most of what I need and it’s easy!  Here are some of my favorite food items, all made here in El Salvador.

Yes Natural Yogurt - unsweetened and simple.  
I have it everyday in licuados or alone with fresh papaya and granola.


La Lucania Fresh Mozzarella and Ricotta – fantastic!


Quail Eggs – so delicate and pretty!


Cooked Beets – They’re good for you!


Carnivale Hummus - the perfect quantity (I always make too much)


Suprema Beer “La magia está en los detalles”  


La Laguna Botanical Garden, a Hidden Gem Jardín Botánico La Laguna, una Joya Escondida



  La semana pasada fui al Jardín Botánico en Antiguo Cuscatlán por la primera vez.  Fue un poquito difícil de encontrar, está escondido detrás de fábricas de comida.  La entrada también está adentro del Vivero al lado del jardín.  ¡Pero, vale la pena! Hay orquídeas, bambú, muchas mariposas, iguanas grandes, peces, colmenas, y todo tipo de árboles y plantas.  El lugar es amplio y al mismo tiempo acogedor. Estuve allá durante la semana y había muchos estudiantes corriendo, caminando, y explorando por todas partes.  Con todos los estudiantes, no me sentía incómoda.  Al contrario, tenía la impresión que todos, incluso yo, estábamos tan felices de acercarnos a la naturaleza y la tranquilidad. 
  Last week I went to La Laguna Botanical Garden here in San Salvador in Antiguo Cuscatlan.  It was a bit difficult to find, hidden behind all kinds of food factories.  The entrance was also challenging as it’s connected to a nursery.  But it was worth finding! There are orchids, bamboo, many butterflies, big iguanas, fish, beehives, and all kinds of plants and trees.  The garden is spacious and welcoming, with walkways leading to different areas that feel like outdoor rooms.  I was there during the week and there were many students exploring the garden.  From the looks on their faces, I could tell they were as delighted as I was to be surrounded by nature in a serene and special place.







 
 

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Lake Suchitlan makes me smile and the funny thing about expectations


  Recently we took a day trip to Suchitoto and Lake Suchitlan.  I’d heard good things about Suchitoto: a beautiful old Spanish colonial town referred to as the “Cultural Crown Jewel of El Salvador”; compared to Antigua, Guatemala, and Granada, Nicaragua in guidebooks; and named by the Mayans, “Suchitoto”, place of birds and flowers.  Suffice it to say, my expectations were rather high.  The only thing I’d heard about Lake Suchitlan is that it’s a manmade lake with contaminated water.  As you can imagine, my expectations for the lake were rather low. 
  Having visited Antigua, Guatemala years ago, I was expecting to see lots of color and vibrancy.  The parts of Suchitoto that I saw lacked both.  To be fair, I was there during the week and I hear it’s a livelier place on the weekends.  We walked around the main square and visited a few stores and a bakery.  Then we headed to Lake Suchitlan for lunch.
  The Puerto San Juan entrance to Lake Suchitlan is very welcoming.  At the open-air restaurants, housed under one roof, we were greeted by women wearing traditional dress.  We ate lunch while looking out onto the lake.  After, we took a thirty-minute boat tour.  Our guide told us fun facts with now forgotten details about the surrounding land that used to be rich farmland. I definitely got the message that the dam radically changed the surrounding areas for better and for worse.  The day we were there, the air was hot and the breeze from the boat was divine.  I felt buoyed surrounded by water, clouds, birds, and green islands and glad to be in that thoughtful state you enter when floating on a body of water. 
  It’s okay to have expectations.  I certainly enjoy looking forward to seeing places that I’ve heard good things about.  It’s okay to feel disappointed too.   Perhaps the idea is to go and see for yourself, decide what you think, and find what strikes your fancy.  For me, I’m interested in going to Suchitoto again, if only to pass on through and head to Lake Suchitlan. 

Centro Turistico Puerto San Juan