Nine years ago, I left my life in
Oakland to study Spanish, work on organic farms, and live somewhere
warmer. I didn’t know how
everything would evolve, but I knew I was ready for a change and an
adventure. I began my new life
with a four-week stay in Quetzaltenango a.k.a. Xela where I lived with a
Guatemalan family and studied Spanish at Juan Sisay. Within my first week there, one of my greatest fears came
true. On a solo walk back to my
new family’s home, I was attacked, pushed to the ground and then groped and
thrown again by a man who must have watched me coming from his car with dark
tinted windows. The experience
lasted less than three minutes. It
was incredibly scary, but I learned that I CAN yell when I’m in danger, I CAN
run, and the instinct to protect myself and my body is incredibly
powerful. The day after, I got
very sick, my body sore from the attack and my stomach turned inside out from
the new and different food. I
debated…should I return home?
Should I give up this hoped-for journey? Not only did I have a very bad experience, summer in Xela is
like June in Oakland (COLD!), and three months before I left, I’d met a
wonderful guy who I was missing terribly.
I decided to stay; I’d worked so hard to get there. Crime happens everywhere and I was just
unlucky. I immersed myself in Spanish. For four hours a day I sat in a cubicle
with my teacher, huddled with a blanket wrapped around me to keep warm. I took salsa-dancing lessons. I listened to sappy Spanish love
songs. And I exchanged daily
emails with my new love where we shared and learned more about each other and
crafted the possibilities of a future together.
That new love is now my husband and there have been many adventures since
my time in Xela. This past week we
had the opportunity to travel to Guatemala, and specifically Xela, for my
husband’s work. I was anxious to
see how it would feel to be back.
We ended up having incredible hosts who fed us fantastic meals, toured
us around, and welcomed us into their home. I had time to explore and was happy to find great coffee and
eclectic restaurants. It’s the
same crumbling colonial town it was nine years ago, with locals, indigenous,
and extranjeros sharing the narrow sidewalks, perhaps with a bit more traffic
than before. The trip was a great
chance for me to transform my memory of Xela from “the town where I was
attacked” to “the town where I ate great food” and from “the town where I
learned to speak Spanish” to “the town where I shared rich moments with my
husband and his colleagues, with our conversations easily weaving between Spanish
and English”.
Here are some highlights:
Mushrooms growing in the attic as a
project for finding additional means
for undernourished communities
nearby. We got to try these cooked
in red wine.
Homemade Spinach Empanadas
Homemade Chile Rellenos - Red Peppers
stuffed with Soy,
“carne de soya”, and Carrots.
Visit to a local farm just outside of
town!
Rows of peach trees and lots
of corn, I was in heaven.
Las Cumbres Eco-Sauna y Gastronomia
Sibal Ulew Thermal Spa
I got really relaxed here. After a sauna we had some coffee and
delicious giant-sized whole-wheat hot cakes (sorry no photo!) served with a
papaya smoothie. http://www.lascumbres.com.gt/es/index.html
Sabor de la India
There are no Indian
restaurants in El Salvador that we know of so this was a thrill.
Café R.E.D. - a cool and revolutionary
place.
Juan Sisay Spanish School - friendly,
welcoming, and right-on. http://www.xelapages.com/juansisay/index.htm
Lovely story. It says so much about overcoming fears. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks Margie! I think there's something unique that happens when we DO face our fears (there's a book "Feel the Fear and Do it Anyway"). I was incredibly lucky to have the support of the school, my friends and family, during that time. I couldn't have persevered without that support. And it's interesting being here in El Salvador where there are persistant fears that arise. Perhaps there's some fine line between putting yourself in danger and living your life. Traveling is good for expanding your horizons, but also for testing your limits. Big hug to you from El Salvador! Zaira
ReplyDeleteThank you Ms Z for confronting your dark recollections so openly. A healing moment for sure!
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